Friday, 20 May 2011

The Last Supper in Anchorage

I meet the whole team today.All the five climbers and five guides are very nice people.2 climbers are from Minessota, one from SF and one from England.Some guides have experience, some less.All our gear was rigourously checked. We bought the missing parts. I wouldnt spend my whole life in Anchorage, but it is surounded by spectacular mountains. Unfortunately, there was another death last week on the mountain with the same company (mine). The second death of a short season. I hope for the best. I will fight for Veronique, my private trainor, my family and friends, patients with epilepsy, CLAE, CEA, and the main sponsor UCB. Thank you all for your encouragement.

You can follow online the expedition dispatch (blog) at:
http://mountaintripdenali2011.wordpress.com

Sunday, 8 May 2011

Transportation and first meeting

Dear friends,
Departure date from Montreal is May 18th, 2011. I will spend 1 night in Vancouver and then 2 nights at the Earth B&B in Anchorage, Alaska. On May 20th the ascension team will meet for the first time: 5 clients and 4 guides. We will learn about each other and our equipment will be checked, which is a crucial step.
On May 21st, a shuttle is driving us to Talkeetna, where we register to the National Park Service. Then we fly to Kahiltna glacier (on a small hydroplane) where we will spend our first night at base camp (2200 m). A new type of life is beginning...
The expedition can be followed on line. We will send information and pictures by satellite phone:
More information is to follow.
Alain

Thursday, 5 May 2011

Training

Dear friends,
Training is going moderately well. Now I regret to not have done more. My schedule is busy because of work. I run 10 km in 52 minutes. I am climbing low altitude mountains mainly in New Hampshire with a 20 kg backpack (45 pounds). I gained experience doing Mt. Washington in February (On the summit minus 40 degree with the wind factor). You can find pictures of this expedition and other past experiences at:
Thank you to follow me.
Alain

Wednesday, 4 May 2011

Departure in 2 weeks

Dear friends,
I am leaving in 2 weeks for the ascension of Mt. McKinley (6200 m), Denali National Park, Alaska. It is the highest peak in North America. On the menu, glaciers and crevasses for 2-3 weeks. I take this opportunity to increase population awareness about epilepsy, a health issue that has great impact on the quality of life of one out of 100 Canadians. 
I am now disturbed by a message I just received from Mountain Trip International, the company leading the expedition: a tragedy happened at 1 am 6 days ago. A massive bloc of ice (serac) was detached and rolled down over base camp and instantly killed a climber during his sleep. All the other climbers were suddenly ejected from their tent. They couldn’t resuscitate this father of 2.
More information about the expedition tomorrow.
Alain